Here are my key take-aways from an ice dyeing workshop given by Natalie Drummond on zoom which will be, admittedly a combination of what I learned, what I knew and what I learned from the experience and doesn’t necessarily reflect the material presented in the workshop.
Gravity ice dyeing refers to yarn suspended from a grid or frame above a tub where the yarn drops below the frame but above the “muck” to encourage dyes that split to travel down the loops of yarn in unpredictable ways to create color interest value changes – more dye will be concentrated at the top of the loops with less dye traveling to the bottom of the loops.
Gravity setup after the ice melted and bags are removed – you can see residual soda ash resting on top of the loops:
Tub ice dyeing refers to yarn laid in a tub. Colors will spread and the value of the yarn will be more consistent.
Both methods use ice to delay the distribution of dye to the yarn. Dye and soda ash are spread on the ice and, through the melting process, is delivered to the yarn.
Ice dyeing benefits from dyes that split meaning dyes that are a mixture of primary colors that, when sampled or applied in this slow delivery approach split into component colors that may not reflect the published dye color.
Test dyes on paper towels to make informed decisions about which combinations work best.
I used Procion MX Butterscotch, Indigo, Kilt Green, Black and Stormy Sky for the yarn below:
The silk yarn along the bottom of the image was dyed “in the muck” after the skeins were removed from the tub.
My original yarn quantities included:
- 8/2 cotton – 4 x 120 end 7 yard warps wound on Warping Square and left in a double circle. (2 times around and tied at the ends) – Gravity Ice Dyed.
- 8/2 cotton – 6 x 200 yard skeins – Tub Ice Dyed.
- 10/2 silk – 4 x 100 gram skeins – Tub Dyed “in the muck” – fiber reactive dyes produce muted effects on animal fibers, for brighter colors use acid dye.
- Prepare the yarn – wind and scour appropriate to the fiber. This list will be focused on plant based yarns. Make sure figure 8 ties are frequent and loose. Use a zip tie to help manage the yarn in the scouring and rinsing process.
- Prepare the dyeing setup.
- Gravity – place a rack over a deep tub (the deeper the greater the distance the dye must travel and the greater the value and color differences (through splitting) will be. Use a mesh bag or other containment to position ice over the yarn to be dyed – assume 4 in depth. I used a deep storage container and a section of dog fence. I made ice bags from fiberglass screen material.
- Tub – use a tub of sufficient size to contain the yarn in one layer and about 4 inch depth of ice. A lid is handy. I used a 28 quart storage box.
- Make sure you have more than enough ice. Assume 7# + bag for each tub and 7# + bag for 4 warps. Don’t skimp on this.
- Prepare the dye + soda ash.
- The ratio is 1 unit dye + 3 units soda ash. Mix these in a shaker bottle. Be sure to wear gloves and a serious mask – better than N95. I used tablespoons and had dye left over.
- Tub dyeing
- Lay the yarn in the tub in one layer.
- Cover with 4 inches of ice, make sure there are no gaps as you want the dye to be delivered slowly.
- Sprinkle the dye + soda ash over the ice using combinations and striping as desired for the design – think light dusting. The heavier the dusting, the more saturated the color and the less color variation as all of that dye ultimately makes it through the yarn to the melted water.
- Cover and let the ice melt – probably over night depending on the temperature of the environment. My sample went from 4pm to 8am with temperatures from 50-75 degrees.
- Remove the yarn and go to the rinse step.
- Keep the muck, it has more dyeing power.
- Gravity dyeing
- Position the yarn over the rack with about 2 inches of yarn exposed over the rack then looping down and back up a few inches away to ride over the rack and then back down. Do this until the yarn is in position. Make sure that the lower loops will clear the muck that develops as the ice melts. If you don’t, you will loose some of the value differentiation that is one of the most important parts of this process.
- Plan your dye, keep a record and use clips to outline the position of the dye – it will be impossible to see once the ice is applied.
- Create a mask that exposes the yarn as it rides over the rack but protects the tub and all of the yarn below the rack.
- Sprinkle lightly the exposed parts of yarn above the rack with the dye + soda ash mixture.
- Cover the yarn with the mesh bags. Fill with 4 inches of ice. No need to extend much beyond the yarn with the bags.
- Using the clips as a guide, sprinkle more dye on the ice above the yarn loops.
- Bundle the top of the ice bag to help it keep its shape.
- Let it melt over night.
- Carefully remove the yarn and go to the rinse step.
- Since I used the same dyes in the tub dyeing as I used in the gravity dyeing I just combined the gravity muck with the tub muck. Not necessarily appropriate if the dyes are different, etc.
- Rinse
- Rinse the excess dye and soda ash off of the yarn in cool water – running is best but a big sink works also.
- Let the yarn soak in hot water + synthropol for 30 min or so. Depending on how much dye is coming off, change the water and repeat this hot water + synthropol soak until most of the excess dye has been released – could be 3-4 cycles depending on the dye.
- Rinse the yarn in cold water – very little dye should be released at this point.
- Spin in the panda.
- Yarn Post Process Prep
- Skeins can be dried on a rack, weighted or not. They can also be twisted although drying takes longer that way.
- Warps done on the square should be uncoiled while damp – add Cowboy Magic if necessary, groomed and chained for drying to reduce the crimping that develops during the rinsing process.
Here’s a shot of the tub skeins – the color value/saturation is fairly consistent although there is a lot of color variation – aren’t they cute?
